Source: http://worldofquilts.blogspot.gr/2010/04/how-to-make-kanzashi-flower.html
These are 2 ways of folding the fabric square, in order to obtain the original Kanzashi flower, and a pleated variation. The red folded petal is the pleated variation, whilst the green is the original. Here we go:
Take a 10 cm square. (can be any size you think you can handle, it also depends on the fabric structure)
Fold in half. Iron. This is the only fold that needs ironing.
Fold in half again, keep fold towards you.
Take the corner and fold it back to you, leaving it a bit aside so you have a pleat at about 2-3 mm from the point.
Take the new corner and fold it again towards you, repeating the same 2-3 mm distance.
Turn the whole construction. (the original fold is now away from you)
Fold the corner towards center, repeating the first steps, mirrored.
Raise construction from table and put a pin in, to keep it together until a later stage.
Cut the loose ends (be careful, not the point!), at about 6 mm from the pin.
Now, the original flower. Take the same 10 cm square. Fold in half, iron.
Fold both corners towards the center. (opening towards you)
Turn around, keeping the fold on the same axis.
Fold in half...
....and mark well the center.
Open again and take the corner...
...and fold it back to the previously marked center.
Do the same with the other side.
Fold in half, with care to keep together the inner corners.
Put a pin in, observing to catch the corners, at about middle of the figure.
Cut the loose ends (not the point!) at about 6 mm from the pin.
Once you have prepared a series of petals (about 8 for one flower), prepare a needle with a strong thread (I've used quilting cotton) and keep it ready by your working hand. Take one petal and take the pin out.
Insert the threaded needle through the petal, on the same point where the pin was.
Take it out. (I use a medical pinch... it is rather difficult to take out a needle from so many layers of fabric)
Leave about 7-8 cm of thread to hang loose at the end.
Continue with the rest of petals, taking care to have them alingned in the same direction.
Now, take both ends of the thread...
... and start doing a "surgeon's knot". That, if necessary, will be subject of another tutorial.
Tie the knot, not very tight, but also not very loose, just average. (leave some space to maneuver)
Start opening the petals, while arranging them on the string.
Form the petals with your thumb.
At the end, put it in the cup of your hand and give it a gentle push in the middle, to give it just it's beautiful form.
Cut the thread.
The same procedure goes for the pleated version.
Now you can start adding embellishments: buttons, felt, etc.
